Friday May 6th, 2011
Position: 19 degrees 43 minutes North, 155 degrees 03 minutes West
Anchored in Radio Bay, Hilo, Hawaii
Total mileage since Punta Mita Mexico == about 2900 miles
top mileage day 143 miles
trip average 120 miles per day
Our last day was one of the roughest of the passage - after two pretty sleepless nights (sleeping in the washing machine, we had to deal with a totally overcast squally morning - occasional high wind gusts and lots of lulls in between. We were really concerned about keeping up our speed as we had over 60 miles to cover during daylight hours if we were to make it in by dark. We had sailed all night with the jib out on a pole, as close to our downwind course as possible, and we were making good speeds (the occasional 9.5+!). It seemed that the wind died so we decided to put up the spinnaker and that was a mistake - we were way overpowered sliding down the waves - to scary for nervous nelly jane, and even for Tim! So all that effort (put up the main, take down the jib and pole, raise the spinnaker) and we had to undo it and go back to the poled out jib. Eventually at 3pm we started the engine to make water before we hit port, and then motorsailed the last 3 hours to make sure we got in before dark. It was a bit anticlimactic approaching Hawaii - we couldn't see land until about 12 miles out! We hardly saw a sunrise or sunset the whole trip (too overcast), and still haven't seen the snowy peak of Mauna Kea (they've had a winter weather warning up there - icy roads!). The island of Hawaii is pretty incredible, and we're looking forward to exploring more. Tim & I have been here before but it's all new for Lori.
Pulling in to the harbor channel, a big squall hit, and Lori got soaked steering us in. It was a bit nerveracking for us all, but luckily the squall passed quickly and we got in to the dock and some other boaters helped tie off our stern for the night. After uncorking a celebratory bottle of Bubbles we all started to realize how hungry we were, and at the same time how exhausted we were and dinner just seemed like way too much effort… but thanks to cell phones and a few calls to our friendly Hawaiian security guards (we still weren't legally allowed to step on land) we were able to call and order a yummy pizza pie from Big Island Pizza and get it delivered, as well as a security escort to the front gate to pick it up!!! How's that for service with a smile!! ALOHA!! :
The next morning Tim cleared us in to customs. We had to give up our leftover produce and frozen chicken/meat, but they didn't come to inspect the boat, just asked us to bring it up to the office. The port here is secured by Homeland Security - which means we have to have an escort any time we leave the boat - they pick us up in a little pickup and drive us to the front gate (or back). Yesterday we made two outings - first one we walked up the street about a mile to the pancake house for breakfast… A squall hit just as we got about 5 minutes down the road, so we were like drowned rats when we reached the restaurant,( the bus boys followed us around mopping up our puddles!!!) - needless to say, we were all a bit grumpy by the time we had that hot coffee and ginormous pancakes. Then later we took the (FREE!) bus into downtown Hilo to do laundry and look around. The Laundromat was awesome - reasonable, quick and clean and nice staff! Our laundry weighed about half as much on the way home. Lots of Thai and other yummy looking restaurants and a well stocked natural foods store; it's a cute town. We went to get a beer and there was a huge line at the Mexican restaurant - turns out it was cinco de mayo!
Looking back on the trip Lori made the observation that we were in "a constant state of suspended aggravation," the sleep deprivation and the wobbliness that required you to hang on or brace yourself constantly (including while sleeping) just made for an uncomfortable passage. We had very few reprieves of calmer seas and sunny weather. And now we're here in grey rainy Hilo - it's been raining quite a bit since we landed! And humid in between. (I guess that explains why all the plants here- similar to the ones we are familiar with from the Virgin Islands- look to be on steroids!!! So lush and a gorgeous shade of green!!) Quite different from our dry sunny mexico! But we're glad to have made it in one piece and to realize how fortunate we had no big problems with the boat and no one got sick or injured. Thanks to Tom (and Billy!!!) for the stash of Eco-lips lip stuff - nearly 3000 miles later and none of us got chapped lips (we used it constantly - better than any other chapsticks we had with us) - we all loved our flavors (my favorite was the orange cream).
Last night Tim painted the line on globe. It's pretty crazy to think how far we've come. We'll stay on Hawaii for a while, then head to Maui next, and make our way up the chain to Oahu and Kauai. Today our good friends Robyn and Brian (and Tasman) will come down to see us and then I'll head up to spend a night with them and let Tim have a mellow night on the boat. We'll also plan to visit with Tim's good friend Grant here on Hawaii, and then can't wait to see Tim's brother Kevin soon!
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